Is that a split outlet? In other words, does the switch control one half of it and the other half is on the other circuit? If so, I have your solution.

The circuit that the switch is on was designed to terminate at that spot. With the power and the switch on, find the hot wire for that circuit. Then, connect that pair to either the top or bottom of the outlet.

With the remaining two pairs, you’re going to have to make two pigtails. Take a spare piece of black/white wire accordingly and cut off about 9-10”. Strip the ends and with a wire nut, bundle the two black wires in the box together with one pigtail, and do the same with the white. Connect the other side of the pigtails to the open half of the outlet accordingly.

Ok, disregard my previous comment. How many b/w pairs are in that box? There should be 4: two on the hot side of each circuit and two that lead downstream.

Disconnect and separate everything. Then organize the wires by pair. Then, test to see which is the hot coming in from each circuit. Then you’ll have to do a little trial and error to see which of the downstream pairs goes to the light vs the switch.

Confirm this and let me know.

Actually, I think I see the problem. Disclaimer: I’m not an electrician, just a somewhat experienced amateur, but for the life of me, I don’t see why that neutral is bundled and capped with those hot wires. That’s likely where your neutral picking up that voltage is coming from.

I will gladly step aside and admit defeat if a professional wants to contradict this answer.

That I’m not sure. Something like that is hard to diagnose without being there and seeing it.

Yes. Somewhere upstream, the neutral is crossed and is picking up voltage.

Work your way backwards through that circuit to find where the issue with the neutral is.

The issue is the neutral at the switch showing voltage. That shouldn’t be happening. What else is on that circuit?

That absolutely should not be happening. Separate and test both neutrals at the switch box.

This side is correct then.

At the switch, do you have one black that is showing voltage and one that is not, and are the neutrals showing correctly?

Then at the light, with the switch off, are both showing 0?

Disconnect it, make sure the black and white wires aren’t even twisted, and separate them opposite each other in the box and retest.

Are you testing it with the light still up, or with it down and the two wires completely separated?

If you can find it secondhand, the original Victorinox Tourbach (not the Tourbach 2.0).

I own several pieces and they’re incredibly durable. The only issue I’ve had is the original handles were designed with a (fake) carbon fiber insert overlaid with plastic. After about 10 years, the plastic part cracked. However, Victorinox sent me a replacement handle (which didn’t have the inlay) for free. Only issue I’ve had in 15 years.

My house is 2 years old, and apparently now combination GFCI/AFCI breakers are a thing. I have a feeling I’d have to sell a kidney if one of those has to be replaced.

But, if it's a new enough house to have an AFCI circuit, now you're below code unless you're installing an AFCI outlet on each circuit, and those aren't cheap either.

Wouldn't installing a small subpanel be easier? Or at least less expensive than replacing AFCI breakers.

Get a self tapping screw of a slightly thicker diameter. Take a drill bit and widen the metal hole if needed.

I second this. The aluminum ones have come down in price enough to where it doesn’t make sense not to use one.

Is it even all the way across? If so, there’s usually a close distance adjustment on the opener motor.

I have bitched, moaned and complained while chipping/prying my way through 20-30 year old silicone on more than one occasion.

Something that will stick, but can be removed without damage. Silicone is your best bet. Stay away from adhesives.

If it’s a bar, whatever you use, it’s not going to hurt to put an extra coat of polyurethane on it. MDF + moisture = not good. Too much moisture and you’re left with a giant pile of soggy cardboard. Can be gloss or satin, whichever you prefer, but the extra water protection won’t hurt.

Could be the color matched unsanded caulk if there is grout nearby. It’s not as bad as cheap painters caulk, but isn’t great either.

City won’t have anything like that for a private home. If you have a metal detector, you can probably find the line that goes out into the yard. The one in the house….this will minimize damage but won’t eliminate it….get a cheap borescope and take a peek behind the walls. You’ll have to patch a small hole, but nothing major.

Widen the intake, and make sure the fan has enough CFM to draw that volume of air through it.